Wednesday 25 May 2016

KANAZAWA 23-25 May

Our first dinner in Kanazawa was rather special.  We had 2 chefs for our party of 11, a private room, all seated in a semi-circle and fitted out with large bibs. The view was great both outside and inside.  Our chef gave an impressive display of chopping garlic, frying and handling food onto plates.  The meat was served cut into large cubes with individual bowls of different dressings.
Jenny and Fred
Garlic
Rare,medium or well-done?  As you wish.
Next morning before leaving the hotel Amy demonstrated the art of dressing in a kimono, using Vilma as a model.  Amy enjoys dancing in traditional dress (and is also a keen rower).
We spent some hours in Kenrokuen Gardens, following Amy and strolling by ourselves.  It was rebuilt in 1774 after fire destroyed the garden and buildings from 1676. 
Ancient pine which is also protected by a canopy of ropes in winter to avoid snow damage
Straw covering to protect from insects and warm the tree - burnt in spring to kill insects
Roots are deliberately exposed for aesthetic reasons
The oldest fountain in Japan using natural water pressure
Statue featuring a legendary prince, dedicated to soldiers who died in the 1877 rebellion
Flying Geese bridge
Kotojitoro, two-legged lantern which is the emblem for Kanazawa
The two-legged lantern resembles the bridge on a oto (harp).


Nearby is the 21st Century Contemporary Museum of Art which we decided not to visit, just looking through the interesting shop and peeking at one exhibit, which was intriguing:
Enjoyed a nice set lunch with Fred and Jenny at a cafe and then wandered back toward the hotel.  Decided to visit the Samurai Quarter nearby and started with Shinise Memorial Hall, a 19th century merchant house which was once a traditional medicine store.  It showcases traditional culture and was very interesting.
Some of the bases for traditional medicines and equipment used

Buddhist altar pieces


Girls made their own handballs.  Around 1336-1573 temari handballs with expensive silk threads were popular with girls of noble rank.  During the Edo period (1603  -1868) it finally spread to the masses with the progress of the cotton industry.  In Kanazawa there is an old custom that a mother makes a temari to send to her daughter as an amulet for her coming marriage.


Gift wrapping  
Street in the Samurai Quarter
 We walked down the street to "The Ancient Site of a Samurai House" (much higher entry fee!), originally owned by a wealthy industrialist, Nomura.  The drawing room has woodwork and sliding doors of exceptional quality.











Monday 23 May 2016

HIKONE 23 May


Hikone is a city of around 110,000 people on the eastern shore of Lake Biwa (where our lovely guide Amy rows). Built by 1622, Hikone Castle is one of 12 feudal castles remaining in Japan, from an original 100.  The castle has been maintained in good condition.
It is a steep walk uphill but bamboo poles are available to assist.

The stone ramparts were impressive and in excellent condition after 500 years.      
This bell was recast in 1844.  It is heard every 3 hours 5 x day from 6am.
 Shoes off, bamboo poles discarded, we walked inside.  Steep staircases led up to defensive positions and hiding holes.  I went backwards down, as on a ladder.

A feudal lord
This six panel screen was in the pleasure quarters of the castle.
Hiding place
Knock out centres and shoot!!    


View of Lake Biwa from castle
 Genkyu-en Garden is located to the northeast of Hikone Castle. It was built in 1677.  During September, it is open in the evening so visitors can listen to the chirping of insects.
This couple, renewing their vows, invited Katherine to join the picture.









After a good lunch in Hikone we travelled on an Express train to Kanazawa, a journey of 2.5 hours.

Sunday 22 May 2016

KYOTO 20-22 May


After our day in Imbe we moved into our new Kyoto hotel and enjoyed a very nice dinner.  This is just one of the many courses.
 










Using local trains the next day, we visited the World Heritage listed Tenryuji temple and gardens.  En route to Kyoto Station, we passed statues of Buddhist disciples, all having different attributes (studious, musical ...) and one whose face peels off for some reason.



An avenue of poles containing kimono fabrics is a feature at Arashiyama Station.
We walked past a stream with weir, bridge, boats. Egrets and cormorants were fishing. There was a small hydro station to power lights on the bridge.
We passed a Nintendo Museum.  Apparently, Nintendo in the form of poem cards dates back 150 years.
 

Tenryu-ji, Temple of the Heavenly Dragon, was established in 1339 but after many fires, most of the present buildings date from 1868-1912.  It is a Zen Buddhist temple.
 The garden is one of the oldest in Japan and is a World Cultural Heritage site.
Teenagers hire kimonos for the occasion.
Frog pond where you throw in money to get more back = good luck
Our next walk was through Okochi Sanso Villa and gardens.  Okochi was a friend of Charlie Chaplin.
 
A cut above the average garden shed!  Actually, a tea house.



Distant temple
Pruning Japanese-style
Lunched in Arashiyama and returned to Kyoto to visit Nijo Castle which was founded in 1603.  More than 2000 paintings survive from their origins in 1626.  In 1867 the fifteenth Tokugawa shogun returned sovereignty to the emperor and the castle became the property of the Imperial family.  In earlier times the emperor was a figurehead with real power vested in the shogun.
Entrance
Cranes with open mouths = beginning; closed mouths = end of life
Information below is taken from Wikipedia:
The castle is an excellent example of social control manifested in architectural space. Low-ranking visitors were received in the outer regions of the Ninomaru, whereas high-ranking visitors were shown the more subtle inner chambers. Rather than attempt to conceal the entrances to the rooms for bodyguards (as was done in many castles), the Tokugawas chose to display them prominently. Thus, the construction lent itself to expressing intimidation and power to Edo-period visitors.
The building houses several different reception chambers, offices and the living quarters of the shogun, where only female attendants were allowed. One of the most striking features of the Ninomaru Palace are the "nightingale floors" (uguisubari) in the corridors. To protect the occupants from sneak attacks and assassins, the builders constructed the floors of the corridors in such a way as to squeak like birds when anyone walks on them.
Some of the floorboards were 60cm wide.
No photography is permitted inside the castle.  The images below are taken from the brochure issued with our ticket. 

In 1953 this garden was designated a Special Scenic Beauty Site.
David liked the subway art.
Miho Museum was temporarily closed so everyone chose their own activities on Sunday, 22 May.  We explored Kyoto with Fred and Jenny.  First stop was the extraordinary railway station.
We ate a good lunch on the 11th floor at a noodle cafe which did not have customers lining up outside.  Benches are outside most cafes in Japan for patrons waiting for a place.  We cooked (heated/fried) the food at our table.  David was more impressed than my photo suggests.
Next we went to the Gion (geisha) district which on a Sunday was crammed with tourists.  Police controlled the pedestrian traffic.
  We came to an area with art exhibition halls and a temple but did not find out what it was all about.
More walking to Yashika shrine area.  Wiki tells me that construction of the main shrine was started in 656 and that it attracted many visitors - thus the geisha connection.
The shrine is Shinto.  Apparently many Japanese have affinity with both Shinto and Buddhism but this place was just Shinto.  Many Japanese people were there lining up to buy prayer cards and/or ring a bell to pray for something.
Just choose your picture and prayer  

 No evening event so we ventured out with Jenny and Fred to find a restaurant.  Eventually we went upstairs where a sign indicated they served beef.  It didn't look promising and we had problems understanding the menu.  However we were happy enough with our meals, though rather surprised.
Self-cooked on a grill - very tender
Japanese version of Steak Tartare